New and used 53-05 Corvette Parts
| 53-55 | ||
| 56-62 | ||
| 63-67 | ||
| 68-82 | ||
| 78-82 | ||
| 84-96 | ||
| 97-04 | ||
| 05-? | ||
| Non-Ebay Specials | ||
| Contact | ||
|
|
||
 |
||
|
||
| We will dye one-piece interior items to match for free with your order. Specify color and add total on checkout! See examples here! | ||
Search our store
Tips and fixes for the average owner!
Earn a $5 credit towards any purchase when you submit a Corvette specific do-it-yourself repair article along with one or more relevant photos. Articles must be your own and may not be copied from other sources. We reserve the right to reject duplicate or non-relevant articles. Let us know if you would like us to use your name and or email in the footer. Email Info"at"vettebay.com
|
If your windows rattle and or leak like
mine did - an easy partial fix is to replace the "window anti-rattle
devices". They help to keep the window firm and in place. You'll need 2
for each door and they are about $10 each. Take the door panel off - and
at the very top, you'll see them held in by a single 1/4-20 bolt. That's
1/4 inch in diameter and 20 threads per inch. The bolt head is 7/16. Make sure
to grab the device with something so it doesn't fall into the door when you
pull the bolt out. You may want to oil up the old bolt and try it first
as the new ones will have tight threads as they are metric for some
reason. Then - you hold them in place
with some needle nose pliers or something and try to line them up where
the old ones were. Check you work and make sure the window isn't too
tight and you're done. Took an hour or less per side. M |
68-82 Anti Rattle Devices - NEW set of 4 - Retail $32 - Your price $29
|
|
If your doors sag and your floors get wet like mine did - an easy
partial fix is to replace the weatherstripping. This may not completely
solve the problems - but it will certainly improve things. Many of the
Sharks I see are completely missing the door weather seals - so first
check to see if anything is left. Once you buy the kit, you'll need to
stretch it out some and of course clean it. The rubber has a nasty film
on it that can be removed with alcohol, Windex, or soap and water. To
remove the existing seals - remove the screws and peel off what you can
by hand and use butter knife or even a razor for the rest. It doesn't
have to be perfect, but you should probably take a wire brush to it as
well. Prep the area all the way around with alcohol and let dry. The
best adhesive is made by 3M and is available at any auto parts store.
You'll want to wear rubber gloves as this stuff is NASTY and you should
work in 60-80 degree temperatures. Start with either top side and coat
the back of the seal (flat side) AND the door groove with a thin line
(1/8") of goop - maybe 6 inches down at first. Set the seal into place
and screw it down. Now go down the whole side of the door to the next
curve and make sure to stretch the seal taught and hold it into place
for about 2 minutes or so. Do the bottom section to the next curve and
so on and remember to watch out for the angle change. You'll want to
wipe up any excess adhesive sooner rather than later. When you're done -
check your work and slam the door closed with all your might. Give it a
few hours and come back and put some silicon on the seal to soften it up
and slam it again. After a week or so, the door slamming will not be an
issue. M
|
 |
|
If your paint is shot - a not so easy - but possible solution is
to wet-sand and compound the car. This technique can be used on both
lacquer and enamel paint alike. Many cars can be brought back to life
with only a few days of work. Warning -
it is possible to make matters worse if you are not careful! To
start, you'll need several packs of sandpaper ranging from 1000 grit to
2500 grit - an electric buffer with a few compounding and polishing
pads, a bottle of 3M compound cream, 3M finishing cream, some cotton
rags, and a constant water supply like a hose. Start by washing the car
or perhaps going through a touch-brush car wash to strip off any wax.
First, you will want to test a small area to check the paint and
clear-coat. A car painted in lacquer (82 or earlier) may or may not have
clear coat. Try 1500 grit for lacquer or 2500 for enamel with clear
coat. Wet the back and front of the sandpaper and rub back and forth
(not circular) in a small section. Keep the paint wet at all times. It
is not necessary to use much pressure - just be sure to press evenly.
You may want to wrap the paper around a sponge or use a sand-sponge to
ensure that your fingertips do not press harder. If you get color - then
you do not have clear coat and you can use 1500 or 1000 grit safely.
Otherwise - you will want to stick with 2000 or 2500. After you test
your section - rinse and wipe dry and it should appear hazy. Now take
the compound cream and put about 1/2 square inch on the section you just
did. Take your buffer with compound pad and spread it around and give it
a go. Hold the buffer at an angle to maximize the pressure. You should
not have to push and should instead let the weight of the buffer work
for you. Do not stay in any one area for more than a second as this can
heat up and destroy the paint. Use quick back and forth motions and go
over it maybe twice. Wipe the area clean and let dry. Repeat the process
with the finishing (gloss) cream with a polishing pad. At this point,
you should also see the true color of the car - so compare it and see if
it's worth the effort. If you can still see oxidation or streaks from
the paper - you may want to go back over it with 2500 grit. If you are
satisfied, repeat the whole process doing one section at a time. Be very
careful around the edges (curves) of the car as you can easily shave the
paint off the thin edges. Be sure not to sand places that you can't buff
and don't let the buffer get away from you. If you are successful, pat
yourself on the back for saving yourself a $5000 paint job! M
|
 Before and after - the door shows what the car looked like before and the tops and rear quarter shows after.
Another close-up of before and after.
Shows the finish after sanding, compounding, and glossing on the left vs just sanded on the right.
As you can see, this process is several days worth of hard labor. If you don't feel up to the task, we can do this for $750. Results may vary and even with a professional, there is a certain amount of risk involved. Local service in the Maryland area only. 240-876-0935 Mike. |
|
Used corvette parts.
1953 , 54, 55, 56, 57, 58
59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65
66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72
73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79
80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86
87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93
94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 00